Видео

Are you referring to the sportsman 48/58? And I assume you are referring to the 11-87 premier, if so the answer is no. Dan.

@@hillsgun Both are 11-87. The Sportsman Field model has different checkering pattern but unable to verify if inside of forend are the same. I know the 1100 forend will not fit on the 11-87.

I can’t tell you for sure, I believe there were at least 2 different inner lengths depending on where the barrel lug contacted the wood, I think this was for both the 2 3/4 and 3 inch guns and had to do with earlier versus later guns, and there is a difference between the wood depending on the barrel contours. I am going from memory so I may be way off , sorry I am not more help. Dan.

Thanks, I’m slow working on stuff lately, to much stuff going on and to many projects.🙂

I believe that they were designed to operate the way that yours are operating, it has to do with shell latch/carrier timing and shell latch wear or having been worked on previously. Most of the 11/87’s by now have seen a lot of use and wear so shell latches have worn,broken, and many replaced so their function has been altered by all of those factors as well as how they load between 2 3/4, 3, and 3 1/2 inch shells. I suspect that many have also been used for 3 gun competition and have been specifically “tuned” to operate by only cycling the bolt . Hope that helps, Dan.

@@hillsgun Yes that makes sense. Occasionally my 1187 police does do it but very rarely. One other question, if you were in a gunfight and you had to use a semi auto shotgun would you have any reservations using the 1187? Or, what would be your top 3 semi auto shotgun picks?

I do my best to avoid gunfights,but since we are going off into the weeds here a shotgun is my last choice , but if it is my only choice the top three is a Beneli

Yes, it’s way overpriced. I have mixed feelings about electronic lead screws and stepper or servo drives on the Atlas. I agree that they are very useful and work well for the advanced user, but most people are setting them up as either their first lathe or as a machine for their hobby shop where they can “putter”. For many who are starting out it can be hard to learn the basics and when you add electronics to the mix it becomes even more difficult. There is an older gentleman on one of the lists that I monitor who aggressively promotes converting lathes to cnc and Linux, every time someone joins the list because they have come up with a new machine and are searching for parts he will expound on all the benefits such as accuracy and the repeatability and how months or years later he can enter the same program and have another exactly dimensioned part. I consider it a great disservice since he does not say anything about the steep learning curve of cad and cam for many new individuals or the large amount of tooling necessary to have that repeatability since anytime you remove a tool from its holder the repeatability is gone until the time is spent to reset it and update the software. Long rant I know but for most the KISS principle is best so I don’t usually promote electronics beyond a DRO. Dan.

And a fine shop can be attained that way, the only problem with it is the statement of “how they can earn their keep”. Usually my desire/lust for a machine outweighs it’s ability to be profitable

I may resemble the remark about being an asshole before they got old🙂

I do occasionally but haven’t promoted it lately, shoot me an email and we can discuss it further, in most instances it is not cost effective depending on what we are doing. Thanks dan@hillsgun.com

Yes it is (patience). I don't really consider it harassment, and it is really hard to bully me, I just find it irritating that many people feel this sense of entitlement like I owe them something for whatever reason and it is sad that this individual from an older generation shares the entitlement view when they should have higher standards. Dan.

I can understand your perspective but I will largely disagree , from my point of view its value does not depend on where it is located. The cost to acquire a machine will vary depending on availability and location,but that doesn’t change what the machine is worth. What changes is what someone is willing to pay to have that machine, quite often machines from the Midwest have seen a hard life in industry and there are more available because of those industries so they don’t bring as much in that area, same with the east coast,and California which is why you see so many of them listed on fleabay. It’s been my experience that if a person is patient machines appear everywhere (often where they are not expected) if you are buying machines and tooling at bargain prices then they must be available to you also but that still doesn’t change what they are worth, only that you feel you purchased at below what the perceived value is for your location and others will be willing to pay more for your surplus. Dan.

@@hillsgun There's a market. Same holds true for literally everything. Im sure if you're patent enough someone will GIVE you a tool too. The bottom line is that machines in the Midwest are cheap, because there are a shit load of them available...

Thank you, would I buy the go755 again? Probably, it’s done what I have asked it to do and has paid for itself by now but it is a constant work in progress. As with most import machines it is basically a kit to start from and the quality of this particular machine is not that good. I had previously bought the go602 lathe to convert to cnc and I have been exceptionally pleased with it from the very beginning so the Grizzly machines are hit and miss, sometimes you will get a good one and sometimes bad the 755 is at the bottom of the scale so I don’t know if it is this particular machine or all the 755 ‘s. I will keep this one as I have it to the point of a pretty good machine that suits my needs and space for now although in the future it may get some major changes. Thanks again, Dan.

@@hillsgun Many thanks for providing your very helpful and insightful comments Dan. I agree with taking the kit perspective at that price point and besides doing upgrades is enjoyable as well as very useful. Thanks again cheers, Jimbo.

Yes the same process applies, but it is sometimes necessary to install a reinforcement block or nut inside the stock.

Yes, the early shapers used the cast iron design and was then changed to the zamak parts. I believe the design change was to prevent serious damage to the shaper. When using the cast iron parts if the power feed was allowed to reach the end of travel and bind there was no designed failure point or “fuse” to stop the automatic travel so you could damage the lead screw, nut, or gearing. By using zamak the outer housing would fail providing a relatively inexpensive repair by replacing the cover which is why now you see so many shapers with cracked feed covers. There have been a few attempts to produce replacements,but in my opinion none have been very successful. I have also been working on replacements but mine are not quite ready . Thanks, Dan.

South Bend better than an Atlas--- you only think that because a South Bend is a better shaper than an Atlas. There is the cult following for the Atlas, just as there is for the South Bend but from an objective perspective the South Bend machines are more robust and are built to a more “industrial “ standard,while the Atlas machines were built as more economical machines to put more machines in the hands of the home/hobby machinists (not that they weren’t sold to actual shops also} which is why you could put down your modest down payment and then make your 8 or 10 dollar monthly payments.

🙂if your drilling any holes in a shaper vise you are probably using the wrong machine.

Thanks, I get nervous when a part is almost done and I get to engraving and lettering divisions.

My pleasure

Thank you, yes I prime first with a rust primer, for this project I am using a standard implement paint from Ace (custom blend). While not as durable as a poly it is available locally, is relatively inexpensive, and easy to apply and touch up. Good luck with your project. Dan.

Probably cheap ammo is my first guess. Just enough pressure to unlock, and eject the empty but not enough to cycle the bolt fully to the rear and trip the shell latch. This will also happen with lighter steel shot as it runs lower pressure. This is assuming a clean and maintained gun.

@hillsgun yes clean hasn't been shot in years till now. What ammo would you suggest to me trying? I'm only using 2-3/4 trap loads

You will probably have to shoot at least a heavy field load

It is a standard 10” I built as a turret lathe for production, no it is not a commercial. The only real changes you will see from the more common 10” machines is it is built with the vertical countershaft and all the turret lathe/production accessories. Thanks, Dan.

@@hillsgun Ive got a QC-42 (10", 1950, horizontal) and a 9" from 1940 that's vertical. It looks nothing like my 9". Maybe there was a change after the 40s

Yes the 9” is completely different

Thank you, yes many parts are standard items which are readily available although last time I checked the timken bearings for the lathe were extremely expensive which was not the case for the mill. Good luck with your project. Dan.

I can imagine, the other side of the coin is imagine those in the US that are trying to keep machines going such as the Deckel’s.

Thank you, the brass drift I was using is an old brass/bronze? screw I came across someplace probably about 50 years ago and has been in my toolbox since then, I have other fancier punches, but for stuff like this it is my go to tool and has held up well.

Your going to have to decide what your machine is worth and what someone is willing to pay for it, I am pretty harsh on values, for me a “fully restored “ machine does not increase its value because everyone’s definition of restored is subjective.accessories obviously increase value, but condition and appearance is also a factor. It’s relatively easy for me to say what I think a machine is worth when I look at the fleabay machines because 99% are overpriced in my opinion, but many will disagree and may pay what the sellers are asking. For me a complete machine in what appears to be in good condition is maybe worth 750 to 800, but I doubt that I would pay more than about 600, A machine that is exceptionally well tooled in my opinion should be worth no more than 1500. This is only my opinion but I usually think the machines are worth about half of what is being asked on fleabay.

@@hillsgun Thanks. I paid around $700 for it when I bought it. I am like you some of the prices are way out of the ballpark. I always say I will pay more when I really want something than what it is worth. I seem to make my best deals when I just have a Luke warm interest. I just bought a Walker Turner 14" band saw that is in above average condition for $100. Guy was asking $200 I offered $100 . Sometimes you just have to throw it at the wall and see if it sticks. If not then is nothing lost. Thanks for the response. I always like your videos.

Thank you

@@hillsgun I agree fully re painted is not fully restored.

Thank you Paul

Thank you, I am ashamed to say that the bearings were sourced from Amazon and were not US made. While I try to use USA parts,the reality is that the least expensive alternative was almost 10 times the cost per bearing.

@@hillsgun We do what is needed in the times we live . I am sure I will have more questions as I move forward into my rebuild.

Not a problem, just remember that I am also learning as I go along. Dan.

Thanks!

Thank you, I have had this lathe for probably about 3 years but with a never ending list of projects I’m finally getting to it. Dan.

@@hillsgun I certainly can understand that. I am getting so close to being finished with mine that I am forcing myself to stay focused. Not forcing myself to take short cuts or sloppy work but to stay focused. . I really do appreciate you taking the time to document and share your time with us. I make short videos of my work but not consider myself a creator. I mainly take the videos and still pics for self-reference. Thanks again I do know how time consuming it is making the length of videos that real creators like yourself make.

Thank you, I’m not sure how much of a creator I am as I can’t compare with some of the others,but I appreciate the kind words. Dan.

Thank you, the color is approximately what was on the lathe, I think it was probably from the Navy.

Glad you enjoyed it

Yes there are inconsistencies and it has been noted before.I have 2 sets of M-1 plans, an older, blue print set and a new set and there is no difference between the two. I basically split the difference and will make adjustments as necessary to get a straight and smooth fuselage, don’t overthink it. In cad you can mirror the sides but you will still have no real way of telling which side is correct (if either is) to get the spacing and smooth skin contours along the bulkheads . Dan.

@@hillsgun Thank you for the reply, Exactly what I am concerned about, spacing between skin and bulkheads. When you apply the skin it generates a cone-ish shape which becomes rigid as you wrap it around the bulkheads and if any of the bulkhead comes up short, it would cause deformation of the skin. How are you dealing with this issue?

Adjustments will have to be made to the flanges and spacing between bulkheads so they are in the same plane all the way around.

My pleasure, thanks.

Still in progress, more to come but as always I rotate thru projects

Much appreciated.😀😀

Thank you very much!, Dan.

Cool, enjoy

Been asked about it, but I don’t plan on it at this time, I may revisit it once it is done.

Universal tool and cutter grinder

@@hillsgun sounds very useful

Hey, I have an atlas shaper and almost brand new condition how much would that be worth? It comes with a stand, but not the original.

Machine tools sell for what someone is willing to pay. I have seen asking prices from $500 to $2500 , I personally won’t pay more than about $1000, and they have to be exceptionally well tooled for me to pay that much.

@@hillsgun thank you very much

It depends entirely on how you utilize end mills in your shop as re-sharpening the ends greatly extends their life for me.

I believe the dies are the same for both models, but haven’t researched it, Dan.

@@hillsgun thank you for making time to answer me , if the machine was a 366 what dies should I use to converted to 3 inch and thanks again for the reply

There are no options as far as I know, you have to use 366 dies from Hornady.

Mine measure about 40 degrees, but your mileage may vary

Thank your

Well don’t be sad about it,I’m farther along than the videos released so far.

Glad you enjoy it!

Thanks, I’ll get them set side by side when I get a chance.

Thank you, I have no concerns at all, my original quorn is also aluminum. If the castings were highly stressed or subject to shock then it might be an issue,but none of them are. The advantage to cast iron might be the weight gain but the difference is not as big as some would have you believe, and when it’s solidly bolted to a steel plate like my original quorn or the concrete base I cast for this one they become one solid mass and is very rigid. Also bear in mind that in the early days cast iron was the standard for machine tools because it was inexpensive (and did and does work very well) so was cost effective to produce castings, where as aluminum was an exotic material at that time so it was much more expensive and used less.

@@hillsgun thank you for the thorough answer. Makes sense. I look forward to the continuation of the series.

My pleasure, quite a bit more progress so there will be more out soon. Dan.

It’s been done before,although it’s usually a variation that ends up being different.

Mine measure about 40 degrees, but your mileage may vary

Thank you, the travel is very small and the amount of travel I have in this video is probably sufficient although I have already milled it out more for a little more travel. The course spiral on the column gets you close to center height then minor adjustment of the spindle to center height then this adjustment is used again to raise the spindle for the relief clearance

possibly, haven't promoted any hornady work in a while since I have been busy with other projects.

Sometimes I think so, but then there are times like this past week or so when everything just seems to flow smoothly and I feel like I am making progress on all of them.🙂 Dan.

@@hillsgun well good luck